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Esquire-ing on a Budget

Submitted by J Boogie [TLL] on Friday, 1 May 2009Comments

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So you took the plunge and started your own firm, sinking in the last scraps of your savings account into getting a respectable looking office. Or maybe you just graduated and need some interview-worthy threads. The bottom line is, you need a presentable suit. Ah yes, the suit. It is the body armor that we lawyers encase ourselves in. Unless you’re one of those damn website lawyers, what with their t-shirts and jeans. But if you too don the monkey-suit, then you know how important it is for that monkey-suit to make you look as damn good as possible. But where can you find a good quality suit without breaking the bank? I am good at many things, not the least of which is saving a buck or two. And I know a thing or two about suits, so I’m gonna hook you up. Here are some tips.

Where to Look: I kind of have a basic rule of thumb on where to look for suits at a good price. Don’t get your suit from any place that you wouldn’t get some normal everyday clothes from. This rule is underpinned by two basic principles of suit frugality. One, more expensive suits exist in the netherrealm of the clothing world where the word “budget” doesn’t exist, and you wouldn’t be reading this post about ‘Esquire-ing on a budget if you had the coin to drop on a fancy thousand + dollar suit. Getting back to the actual places to look, start out with your mid level department stores such as Macy’s, and go to their DKNY and Calvin Klein sections, which ought to have a few solid options at$450 and under. If you are lucky, you drop the price on them with an easily obtainable friends and family discount, open up a line of credit (note: you go this route when the discount for opening the card will stack with other discounts, but it doesn’t always work this way so find out. You will repay this card and cancel it IMMEDIATELY or else you are simply turning your once inexpensive suit into quite an expensive one) or, if you’re really lucky, you grab something that looks decent off a sale rack and apply the above two.

If you are looking for higher end threads, take a look at a store like Nordstrom Rack, where designers send their 2nd tier labels to purgatory. You can pick up a well made suit for around $300-$400, and these stores have good on-site tailoring. Another possibility is to peruse smaller shops like Banana Republic (who I heard might be going out of business, so it might be an even better time to find a sale). And if at all possible, check out outlet versions of these stores as they occassionally have good finds that only eagle-eyed shoppers will find. I visit a Hugo Boss Outlet near where I live, and I have picked up several top quality suits from there. Not only does Boss make amazing suits with lightweight material,but their outlets get the good stuff from time to time. I have a $1500 Boss suit (as seen at Nordstrom) that I purchased at their outlet store for $299 before tax. So keep an eye out.

Tailored to Perfection: Of course, it’s important to remember that an off-the-shelf suit will make you look sloppy if you try parading in public. So do spend the time and money to get your newfound purchase tailored. The following general rules will work for most anybody:

  • Don’t get the pants cuffed.
  • Generally, flat front pants are easier for tailors to deal with, so avoid pleats if at all possible. If you have to go pleated, go single.
  • Arm length of the suit jacket is important. The amount of cuff you want to rock is a personal call in my opinion, but you definitely want shirt to extend further than the jacket. Any tailor worth his weight will know what to do here.
  • If you are athletic or skinny, you will probably want to take the back in a bit, because you want the suit to fit properly.
  • Getting all of these alterations has run me from $50 to $80, but remember these are basic and very common alterations that should be made.

What Type of Suit to Buy: If you are on a budget, you need at least two basic suit colors. Though this is also a personal call, I suggest simple black and navy. Black pairs with almost anything out there, and you can easily take different suit and tie combinations and create multiple outfits. Also, with a black suit jacket, you can pair it down with jeans and a t-shirt, or take it up a notch and be super-formal with it. Navy also goes with alot of colors, and please never wear black shoes with a navy suit. If you aren’t too keen on navy, go with a khaki colored suit. Khaki will work in warmer seasons, and in cold seasons will still look good even if a bit out of place (rock a dark overcoat and you’re set though).

Avoid pinstripes, since those dress up the suit and can limit the suit’s versatility outside the professional world. Also, there is the never-ending question of how many buttons should be on a suit. I tend to think in terms of body type. If you are tall (think: basketball player height) then 3 button suits are perfect. The rest of us should be content with 2 button suits if possible, but I seem to notice that at places offering cheaper suits, 3 button seems to be the norm. Again, keep an eye out and try on both a 2 and 3 button suit to see which you prefer. Never bottom the last button! You will simply look like you are a five year old who doesn’t know how to dress himself.

One final note on suits: Vents. You have your double vent, single vent, or no vent. Since vents allow some air flow and greater mobility in the jacket, I do suggest vents if possible. In the late 90’s and early 20th century, design took an unusual turn and the non-vented suit became quite popular. But vents seem to be back in force, and I simply like a suit that can move with me (as opposed to a non-vented suit which to me feels much stiffer). But in the end, this judgment call will come down to aesthetics and wallet-pain. Vented suits tend to be a bit more expensive, though this isn’t always the case.

Anyway, times are tough financially. So why not try to get the most out of your money. You can easily pick up 2-3 high quality suits for the price of one $1000 suit.

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  • Maduck
    j boogie i may start following ur advice on these suits, i certainly need some threads..and silkay, thanks for finally offering something constructive in your comments; that douchebag website is hilarious!
  • silkay johnsten
    What are you, a yag? There are exceptions to every rule.

    No cuffs...if you're short...but if you want to look like a big swinging 0ick cuff em. Brown shoes and a blue suit...yeah unless you got on $1000 John Lobb's then no one cares, you're setting the rules. Pimp stripes are fine and have their place. CHALK stripes are for guido's and douchebags that still wear fades and have square toed shoes. Vents...yeah, I'll vent. Double on a skinnysuit = douchebag. just look at those kids with skinny pants and 5 oz of gel in their hair. Single is more versatile and isn't a fad right now. All in all avoid the skinny suits so people dont think you're in love with Tony Romo rhymes wit momo....

    PS - Heart rate monitor watches or Triathalon watches with your suit for work only mean you're a tool and deserve to be on hotchickswithdouchebags.com. Seriously, get over yourself.

    PPS - Eat a corn dog. It'll solve world peace.

    Silkay Johnsten
  • You rock blue suit with black shoes and you're walking around looking like a bruise. I suppose if budget constraints don't allow you to purchase two different pairs of shoes (man, you are going to kill that single pair of shoes very quickly) then that is fine. But for budget concerns, I think it actually works out better owning two pairs of dress shoes and alternating. Not that I'm a fan of square toed shoes, but not everyone can walk around looking like a fairy with pointed dress shoes. Also, not everyone has feet as narrow as a girl's foot. Haha.

    I agree with the single vent comment. Skinny suits exist in horrible places like H&M, where the clothes are made to fit fairy's. Despite the decent price tag (suits can run $150 up) do NOT think that you, the average sized man, will be fitting your ass into an H&M suit. Fat guy in a little coat? Yup. *RIP*
  • Good advice, I love Nordstrom Rack suits. I searched last year for a summer wedding and found a good deal on a grey Burberry suit... not just that but they had great dress shirts by Burberry and a ton of ties that you could just stop there and find everything you need (even found a good brown Ecco shoe there). They also have free on sight tailoring by seasoned 80 year old asian guys so you know they know what they're doing!

    Anoher shocking place to get high end suits is Marshalls - not everyone out there but the one in SF once had a crazy sale with brands like Prada and John Varvatos... they were still expensive but probably a fourth of their retail costs.
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